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Norma Desmond



Modiste: maker of, or dealer in women's fashionable clothes. Modiste was also one of the names given to the early 1920s Hollywood costume designers.




Saturday, December 22, 2012

GARBO IN TWO-FACED WOMAN - THE DUELING DIVAS BLOGATHON


In the movie Two-Faced Woman, Greta Garbo faced off against herself. But little did she know that MGM had come up with a make-over plan for her that would end up killing off both versions of Garbo. 




The year was 1941 and World War II was raging in Europe. The formerly strong market in Europe for Garbo films went bust, as indeed it did for most all American movies in Nazi-overrun Europe. MGM's response was to try to make the mysterious  and overtly European Garbo into a smiling, laughing, and approachable movie star. The plan was to try and repeat the hit Ninotchka from 1939, another romantic comedy that co-starred Melvyn Douglas. That movie had been directed by the wonderful Ernst Lubitsch. Two-Faced Woman seemed at the outset to have all the makings of a success - George Cukor was set to direct, and Garbo's confidant Salka Viertel worked on the screenplay.  But MGM's make-over plan was to de-glamorize Garbo, a fatal mistake for a star with such iconic imagery as Garbo possessed.





Greta Garbo had been a super star since the silent cinema, where she revolutionized the look and mannerisms of the modern woman. Her roles as lover, vamp, or tragic heroine blazed a trail that even Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn felt the need to emulate in their early  careers. Above Garbo is shown as the spy Mata Hari in Mata Hari, from 1931. She played steamy and exotic roles in many  movies, reaching super-stardom when paired with John Gilbert in Flesh and the Devil in 1927. She starred in singular movies  such as A Woman of Affairs, Wild Orchids, The Kiss, Inspiration, The Painted Veil, As You Desire Me, Anna Karenina, Grand Hotel, and Camille. With costume designer Adrian, who designed all her costumes for films from 1928-on, Garbo set fashion trends and hair and make-up standards around the world.



Photofest


Garbo had just starred in Ninotchka along with Melvyn Douglas, and the pair previously had displayed good chemistry in As You Desire Me. In the photo above Garbo plays the stern Soviet official named Ninotchka who is sent to Paris on business and ends up falling in love with its degenerate fashions and American visitor. In Two-Faced Woman, Garbo plays a "boring" Nordic skier who is losing the interest of her new American husband Larry Blake, played by Douglas. When he returns to New York on a trip, she follows in order to spy on him, but in so doing is obliged to pretending she is her own more exotic twin-sister. In this new role she intends to lure him back from the clutches of his former lover played by Constance Bennett.


Photofest

Even in playing the "boring" twin-sister Garbo is given the make-over. She is a ski-instructor, she swims actively, she laughs. Somehow the MGM Garbo make-over plan was so one-track that the producers didn't realize that they were compromising the plot by having the boring sister be such a dynamo. The couple's temporary separation was hung on a disagreement about where to live, and of course the reason for the "exotic twin sister" act. In its own twist of fate, Adrian had designed the costumes early in his career for Constance Talmadge in Her Sister from Paris from 1925, the film that Two-Faced Woman was based on.



Photofest


Two-Faced Woman was one of Cukor's few misfires. He had directed Garbo in her finest film: Camille. Adrian was not happy about how he had to dress Garbo. He was used to having his own way in the costume designs for his films, and he knew this one was going off the tracks from the beginning. Most of his initial designs for Garbo were rejected. Although Garbo is bra-less in the photo above, Garbo's gown is devoid of sex-appeal, and this for the exotic and sexier sister role. And this for the sister that is, "partial to indoor activities," as she says in the film. But both sisters in the Garbo make-over had to frequently smile and laugh. In this case going against type was not effective.




And let's make a dancer out of Garbo while we're at it. MGM's publicity stated she learned the  steps to the "Chica-Choca" rumba quickly, and that she had exquisite timing. Yet Garbo the exotic sister didn't fool her husband Melvyn Douglas, which the film audience learns about early in the plot. Ans so the joke was not only on Garbo the star but on Garbo the actress. 

The film's censors had not been fooled. The role of Melvyn Douglas as the husband, having an adulterous relationship with his sister-in-law, had quickly forced changes to the script that led the story through its plot-deflating twists and turns.






Constance Bennett shown at left plays Griselda, Larry Blakes' old flame. Garbo is shown at right. While a simple black gown on Garbo would always look beautiful, it's clear from this photo, and the roles they play, which of the two stars gets the glamour treatment.

The film's plot resolution comes about as Douglas as Larry Blake tests Garbo the exotic sister by saying he's going back to his wife abroad. This of course causes their less-than-suspenseful 
reunion back home.

At its release the film was poorly reviewed by the critics. Garbo took this personally. She had already been shocked by being offered a reduction in pay by MGM. At this point she essentially walked away from the studio. 

Adrian too saw the writing on the wall. He said at the time about Garbo, "When she walked out of the studio, glamour went with her - and so did I." Indeed, he left to open his own fashion design business, this at the very beginning of America's entry into World War II. 

It would be many years before glamour returned to MGM.The talented Irene, who replaced Adrian, had tried, but the roles were not there. Designer Helen Rose followed and had success in the 1950s with MGM stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly. Yet a jewel slipped from the hands of MGM, and one by one the other glamour goddesses would depart too (mostly by losing their contracts), and the studio itself would eventually collapse.

For movie fans, Greta Garbo's one hauntingly beautiful face was, and will ever be, enough.

Greta Garbo never made another film.




18 comments:

FlickChick said...

A painful film to watch, as Garbo is done such a disservice. I was fortunate to see Constance Talmadge in "Her Sister from Paris" and she was perfect. The role calls for a frothy, perky actress - words that definitely do NOT describe GG. As you say, this was one duel where no winners emerged.

Christian Esquevin said...

Thanks for your comment FlockChick.
You are so right. That's great that you got to see "Her Sister" but it's such a shame that Garbo went out with this film.

Christian Esquevin said...

Sorry - FlickChick- missed a letter on Iphone

ClassicBecky said...

I've never actually read about this issue, Christian, but I couldn't agree more. "Garbo Laughs" was one of the most horrible PR campaigns ever, and having Garbo dance like that in a horrible hairstyle to boot, was indeed a death knell. Personally, I think Garbo should never have laughed and danced as in this movie. It made her look rather silly, and who would think she could EVER look silly. She should have drifted away from the screen with her iconic face intact. Poor Adrian - how he must have suffered with this! Really thoughtful and well-done article!

Christian Esquevin said...

Becky, I so agree with you. It was a humiliating end to a distinguished acting career. And regardless of her occasional opportunities to return to the screen, this experience shattered her confidence to do so.

Margaret Perry said...

That's so sad! I like Garbo and I can't believe the studio so completely messed up a good thing. It's especially odd considering Cukor and Adrian were on the team. What a shame.

silverscreenings said...

Wow - I wasn't familiar with this story. MGM really dropped the ball here.

Great post!

Christian Esquevin said...

Thanks for your comment Margaret. Yes, this was a wasted opportunity with so much talent - and with such disastrous results.

Christian Esquevin said...

Thanks for your comment silverscreenings. Unfortunately, this was one of those movies in film history that bombed. But rarely has such a movie completely ended a superstar's career
as had this one.

LĂȘ said...

I'm a huge Garbo fan and I haven't watched the movie, only the dance sequence, which is very odd for Garbo's persona. So sad she had such a flaw to end her brilliant career.
Don't forget to read my contribution to the blogathon! :)
Greetings!
Le

Christian Esquevin said...

Thanks for your comment Leticia. I enjoyed your contribution to the Dueling Divas blogathon very much. The Lady Eve is always fun to watch and your review was fun to read (and watch).

Christian Esquevin said...

Marc McDaniel asked if anyone could help him determine, of if anyone knew what the actual color of Bogart's trench coat was in Casablanca. Some one told him it was almost purple but it looked khaki in B&W. Is this correct,he asks?

My opinion (I haven't seen the actual trench coat or color photos of it)is that it would have been either khaki or even a lighter tan color. Purple is not feasible since it would have photographed as black in b&w film. Trench coat colors were very basic in the early 40s. Either khaki, black or tan, so it most likely would have been one of the lighter colors.

Classicfilmboy said...

I've always avoided this movie because of the bad reviews and the fact it was Garbo's last role. With that said, I loved your assessment of the glamor and how the film forced Adrian to leave as well. Fascinating bit of history ... thanks for sharing!

Page said...

Christian,
Thanks for giving us a bit of insight, behind the scenes drama, gossip in the making of this film. With the films description and then her co-star, you really would expect something special here. It's sad that it was such a disappointment.

Thanks for including the side by side of the gowns for Bennett and Garbo. I really didn't notice it while watching the film. (Perhaps I was distracted by their hair! Youza!)

It's interesting that this was the film that made Garbo decide to retire and I had no idea that Adrian left as well. It must have been something to be able to dress, design for Garbo.

A very clever choice for the Dueling Diva's Blogathon.

Happy New Year to you, Christian! : )
Wishing you nothing but the best in 2013.
Page

Christian Esquevin said...

Thanks for your comments Classicfilmboy. Each movie has its own interesting backstory as you know, only this one ended up a tragedy.

Christian Esquevin said...

Page - thanks for your comment. It was probably a matter of time anyway. The days of glamour were ending for both Garbo and Adrian in the early 40s. Adrian started his own very successful business. But it was too bad Garbo never made another film.

The Lady Eve said...

Christian,
Very nice take on Garbo's last film as well as the circumstances leading to her departure from movies. I am one who prefers Garbo before MGM required her to laugh or even smile (though, thanks to Lubitsch, "Ninotchka" stands on its own overall merit). I realized when I saw "Flesh and the Devil" for the first time a few years ago that I actually prefer Garbo not even talking! I tend to think she was at her best advantage in still portraits (or swanning about in gorgeous Adrian gowns) with her hair over one eye (I would have preferred her without the ringlets in "Camille") and her face composed, Sphinx-like. Not a great actress but a matchless image of serene and inaccessible beauty.

Christian Esquevin said...

Lady Eve - Garbo's beauty was indeed best shown when she posed expressionless, especially as Queen Christina sailing off to an unknown fate. Yet it was through her body movements that she best expressed her emotions in acting, a skill few can match.