Welcome to the Silver Screen Modiste

"Just us, the cameras, and those lovely people out there in the dark!"

Norma Desmond



Modiste: maker of, or dealer in women's fashionable clothes. Modiste was also one of the names given to the early 1920s Hollywood costume designers.




Friday, December 16, 2011

BLACK AND WHITE COSTUMES IN COLOR part 2


This is part two in a series on how black & white film costumes looked in color. These images are not from the colorization process that Ted Turner had launched years ago and that thankfully died out. Nor are the images taken from the post-colorization process that was used for early lobby cards and more recently for video and DVD cases. The colors used for these, especially for DVD cover art, is unreliable in regards to the true colors of the original costumes. Color photographs began being used in Hollywood in the 1930s. They were not used extensively, however, not due to the cost of color photography but rather because of the high cost of color printing in newspapers and magazines. These media preferred  black and white for most of their photos, even into the 1960s. But  color photos were taken using the Carbro (carbon bromide) process in the 1930s and early 40s, and they show the stars and their costumes in beautiful colors. These shots were used sparingly in the fan magazines and in other publicity, but they are a revelation in showing the real colors of those black and white film costumes




The photo above shows Barbara Stanwyck in Ball of Fire from 1941. She is also shown below in black and white with her co-star Gary Cooper. While we know her costume is made from a metallic finish material such as lame or sequins, in black and white they give the appearance of silver. Gold finishes were often used in costumes. Both gold and silver lames tarnish with age, and thus the vintage Hollywood costumes that sparkled like the sun on film have now unfortunately lost that luster.


Photofest


Of the several Cleopatra movies,  the one starring Claudette Colbert with costume designs by Travis Banton, is my favorite of them all for Cleopatra's costumes. They were strictly art-deco/ Hollywood glamour rather than classic Egyptian, but who cares with costumes like these.


Photofest


The black and white photos are just as stunning.

Photofest

Cleopatra's gold lame gown shown below was sold in the first Debbie Reynolds auction held last June. It was hammered down at $40,000.


Photofest


I had owned the photo shown below of Rita Hayworth in Cover Girl, 1944, long before I ever saw the movie. I never really liked this costume as photographed in black and white, it seemed excessive and campy. But when I saw the film in its original Technicolor, with the costume in red and black, I loved it. I was even more amazed seeing the dots up close at the Debbie Reynolds auction - they were not made from sequins but buttons. It was a fabulous design by Jean Louis.






The original costume from the Debbie Reynolds collection at the Profiles in History auction.


Above is a close-up of the costume as it was shown at the Debbie Reynolds auction in June 2011.


I also owned several of the famous and gorgeous oversize black and white photos of Jane Russell in her first film, The Outlaw, 1943. The black and white photos are still my favorites, but the color photo below is also a knock-out. The B&W photos were some of the most popular pin-ups with the GIs in WWII, especially due to the racy reputation the movie had acquired. Jane Russell looks fierce in either black and white or in color.



Photofest







And one of the most endearing films of all time, one of my favorites, Frank Capra's It's a Wonderful Life, 1946,  starring Jimmy Stewart and Donna Reed. We can't imagine it in anything but black and white, but here's a photo of the pair in color. Photos of screen couples smiling are as rare as was the use of color itself.  This one brings us cheer.





Happy Holidays.




13 comments:

The Lady Ship said...

I don't know what it is, that makes bw-images so more stunning. I love the enhanced contrast, it seems to give much more depth to the characters and adds glamour and mystery.

Christian Esquevin said...

You're exactly right Lady Ship about the qualities of B&W photography, especially from the golden age, that makes those photos compelling - contrast, drama, and mystery.

FlickChick said...

I often wondered what all of those beautiful costumes looked like on the set. Rita's costume is darling and - boy - can you imagine what that Cleopatra set looked like? Thanks for sharing these, Christian!

The Lady Eve said...

Christian - Interesting info on the use of color and b&w photographs in eras past. I suppose I have no preference of b&w or color, as long as the film or photo 'works' and is well done. For example, "The Night of the Hunter" is a most beautifully and expressively filmed b&w movie. Cannot imagine it in color. On the other hand, there's "Black Narcissus," a brilliantly expressive color film - can't imagine it in b&w...

I do enjoy seeing color photos of gowns and costumes I've only known in b&w. Barbara Stanwyck's outfit from "Ball of Fire" is a real knockout onscreen in b&w - but it's also fascinating to discover its actual color. I hope you will continue with this series, Christian.

Christian Esquevin said...

Thanks for your comments FlickChick. I have to agree that the sets of Cleopatra must have been jaw-dropping. The art-deco sets of that era are my favorites.

Christian Esquevin said...

Yes Lady Eve, you are right about the appropriateness of B&W or color to certain films, there's also Barry Lyndon vs The Last Picture Show, and many others.Thanks for your interest in the costume colors - that's what I'm most interested in showing here, rather than the merits of B&W vs. color in film or still photography.

whistlingypsy said...

Christian, a fascinating look at the colors (and materials) used to create some of classic film’s most iconic costumes (I’m sorry I missed part one, I’ll take a look when I finish here). I find it interesting how often details can be either lost or revealed depending on the medium in which the costume was photographed. Barbara Stanwyck’s costume in “Ball of Fire” is iconic not simply for the sensational design, but for the way in which the reflective material draws your attention to the actress: you simply can’t take your eyes off her. The color photo of the costume reveals both the texture and the quality of the material, but in the warm gleam of gold rather than the icy spark of silver. You mentioned that gold was often used, “reading” as silver in black and white, the same is true for materials such as satin used for costumes in the silent cinema for its evocative character and the way it attracted the light. It is interesting to see one of Mary Pickford’s costumes for “Dorothy Vernon of Haddon Hall”, which is apricot “burn-out” velvet with lace and fur trims. The costume also features silver lame inserts, both the color and material would capture light and accentuate movement when seen in black and white. However, I find it interesting these colors are depicted as lavender or purple in lobby cards of the day. Your first-hand experience seeing Rita Hayworth’s costume at the Debbie Reynolds auction reminds me how much we owe to the actress for preserving film costume heritage. She is part of Hollywood’s Golden Age heritage, but like many of us, she is also a fan. I think it is such a shame that her dream of a costume museum was not realized. Best wishes for a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Christian Esquevin said...

Thank you WhistlingGypsy for your comments. The insight into the fabrics used is very interesting when viewing them in B&W vs. color.I happen to have quite a few small fabric samples from several 1930s RKO films and it's amazing to see how rich the colors were for those B&W films. And seeing the costumes up close at a venue like the Debbie Reynolds auction gives you even more appreciation of how well they were made, including the back of the costumes as well. Yes, we can thank Debbie Reynolds for preserving so many. Although they are now being scattered, who knows what would have happened to many of those costumes from the 1970 MGM auction if it wasn't for her. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you too.

Christian Esquevin said...

WhistlingGypsy your second comment seems to have evaporated in etherspace. It is interesting gauging the color of costumes in color films when both the film stock and the original costume fabric have faded. The films for the most part can be restored, but that isn't the case with original costume fabrics. Some have remained vibrant, like the Cover Girl costume shown. Others like the Debbie Reynolds flapper dress from Singing in the Rain (and several others)from the first auction have faded badly.The exposure to light over long periods is one cause. It is a real shame that these costumes are being scattered. The dilemma is that were they to be in a museum, they couldn't remain on view for very long because of this problem.

Kay said...

Hope you don't mind, Christian, but I've posted a link to this portion of your blog in a discussion on Ball of Fire. The wonderful pix of Stanny is amazing and I wanted to show how you'd tracked down a color image of same. Love your blog! Thanks, Kay
www.moviestarmakeover.com

Christian Esquevin said...

Kay - that's great that you linked to this post for the color photo of Barbara Stanwyck - it's a great one. Thanks too for the compliment.

DorianTB said...

Christian, I really enjoyed your blog post and those gorgeous outfits! I was especially interested in seeing Barbara Stanwyck's sequined BALL OF FIRE costume in color, since my husband and I wrote a double-feature blog about BALL OF FIRE and OSCAR for the CMBA Comedy Classics Blogathon. That bronze costume is beautiful; great to see it in color!

If you're interested in seeing the BALL OF FIRE/OSCAR blog post itself, here's the link:

http://doriantb.blogspot.com/​2012/01/​wedding-bell-wackiness-double-f​eature.html

Christian Esquevin said...

Dorian, I'm glad you enjoyed the color photo of Barbara Stanwyck. And I'll check out your blog post.
Thanks.