Edith Head, amongst a group of very colorful costume designers, was an enigma. She wrote more about herself, appeared frequently on TV as herself, and was interviewed more often than any other costume designer. She has also been the subject of several book-length biographies, and is easily the most recognized name in costume design. Despite it all she remains a bundle of contradictions. If only she could talk to us again and answer our questions. Alas she is in the pantheon, along with most of the late stars and icons she dressed. The closest we will get to understanding her, and it is very close indeed, is through the remarkable work of actor Susan Claassen and her one-woman show, A Conversation with Edith Head. If you're in Los Angeles, or can get there, don't miss the play at the Odyssey Theatre, October 27 through November 13 on Thursdays through Sundays.
The photo above is of Susan Claassen, not Edith Head. Susan's performance takes place on a stage of props carefully collected or created over many years. The brown satin and fur-trimmed gown is a replica of the Edith Head-designed costume for Bette Davis in All About Eve. Another costume may be the beautiful white gown designed for Elizabeth Taylor in A Place in the Sun. Photos of Miss Head, or Edie as her friends called her, fill the backdrop. A miniature sewing machine is included, of which Miss Head had collected many.
The incredible thing about the play, besides the great acting, is how much more you "get" Edith Head after seeing it. The play script was written by Head biographer Paddy Calistro and Susan Claassen. The play does not just portray the standard view of Edith Head. Head's insecurities and related motivations, her triumphs and disappointments, the false design attributions and all, are revealed under the bright stage lights. Susan portrays these parts of Edith Head, while talking to the audience and reminiscing about her life in the movie business.
And Susan shows some of Edie's caustic side too. If you're a man in the audience , you better not be wearing some shabby shorts or she'll single you out for a lesson on proper dressing. Susan Claassen herself wears a gray suit, Edie's preferred dress for work at the studio. She believed in not outshining the stars she dressed, not a likely possibility anyway given the glamorous stars she usually worked with. But this does reveal that Edie felt she needed to flatter and accommodate the stars, whereas some top designers considered this a contest of wills.
The photo above is of Susan Claassen, not Edith Head. Susan's performance takes place on a stage of props carefully collected or created over many years. The brown satin and fur-trimmed gown is a replica of the Edith Head-designed costume for Bette Davis in All About Eve. Another costume may be the beautiful white gown designed for Elizabeth Taylor in A Place in the Sun. Photos of Miss Head, or Edie as her friends called her, fill the backdrop. A miniature sewing machine is included, of which Miss Head had collected many.
The incredible thing about the play, besides the great acting, is how much more you "get" Edith Head after seeing it. The play script was written by Head biographer Paddy Calistro and Susan Claassen. The play does not just portray the standard view of Edith Head. Head's insecurities and related motivations, her triumphs and disappointments, the false design attributions and all, are revealed under the bright stage lights. Susan portrays these parts of Edith Head, while talking to the audience and reminiscing about her life in the movie business.
And Susan shows some of Edie's caustic side too. If you're a man in the audience , you better not be wearing some shabby shorts or she'll single you out for a lesson on proper dressing. Susan Claassen herself wears a gray suit, Edie's preferred dress for work at the studio. She believed in not outshining the stars she dressed, not a likely possibility anyway given the glamorous stars she usually worked with. But this does reveal that Edie felt she needed to flatter and accommodate the stars, whereas some top designers considered this a contest of wills.
Edith Head at home on her patio. Photo by Michael Childers
Once at home, Edith could be herself. She loved Mexican arts and crafts, and dressed in colorful outfits. She and her husband Wiard "Bill" Ihnen had a beautiful Spanish style house called Casa Ladera, its patio walls decorated with large paintings of the noted Mexican artist Alfredo Ramos Martinez. She also loved to cook and entertain.
Edith Head typically wore her famous necklace of antique ivory theater tickets. The late Elizabeth Taylor loved the necklace so much that Edie bequeathed it to her at her death. It is a perfect symbol that Susan Claassen had replicated and wears for her shows. You don't want to miss, A Conversation with Edith Head.

15 comments:
Great post! I've always wondered whether Pixar's Edna Mode, with her short black hair and round glasses, was a tribute to Edith Head.
Thanks for the comment LucieWickfield. And yes, Edna Mode was based on Edith Head
I would love to see Susan Claassen as Edith Head...if only she'd bring her show north! It sounds as if it's and evening of great fun - and revelation. I've yet to delve very far into the life of Ms. Head...is the Calistro book the one you'd recommend?
Pixar created an Edith Head character??? Interesting...I don't see a lot of animation (though was stunned by last year's "The Illusionist") since my godson's have outgrown that stage...
I so enjoy learning more about the iconic costume designers of Hollywood through you, Christian. Thank you for another enlightening post on one of the greats...
Yes, LadyEve, I know you'd really enjoy the production. And Edna Mode was the animated costume designer to the superheroes in "The Incredibles." Paddy Calistro's "Edith Head's Hollywood," which was a collaboration with Edith Head, is a very good biography. David Chierechetti's "Edith Head" and Jay Jorgensen's "Edith Head" are also very interesting. Edie was well served in her biographers.
Christian,
Thanks for giving us a glimpse into the personal life of Edith. I would have never guest she collected Spanish art. For some reason I picture her more of a Degas fan. Ha Ha
I would love to be able to attend A Conversation With Edith Head.
A wonderfully fun post as always.
Page
Thanks for the comment Page. Edith definetely had a public life and a private life. And the backstory to all these talented or creative people is always interesting, though sometimes very different than their persona.
Sounds like a terrific evening. Maybe it will travel eastward? She was a most interesting individual, wasn't she? I'll keep this on my radar.
Yes, FlickChick - keep a lookout for any opportunity to see this show. Susan is based in Tuscon at the Invisible Theater, but she's performed in Scotland, London, and New York.
Great Post!!!!!! I would love to see that Play! (By the way, Margot Channing's - Bette Davis - evenig gown is from "All about Eve")
Christian, a fascinating read on the life of Edith Head and Susan Claassen’s inspiration (she looks eerily like the designer). Unfortunately, I can’t make it to any of the performances, but I would be intrigued to hear your ideas on the play, if you attend. I was fascinated to see Bette’s costume from “All About Eve” in color; I often wonder what colors the designers chose when working in black and white, the mocha color and fur trim are both gorgeous. You mentioned “the false design attributions and all, are revealed under the bright stage lights,” I wonder if this will include a particular design for a silent film (before “The Wanderer” of 1925), which if correctly attributed might represent her earliest work.
As Tertulias - thanks for pointing out my mistake in the Bette Davis movie All About Eve - I've corrected the title
Thanks for your comments WhistlingGypsy. Yes I have seen the play before and it's wonderful. Even after reading two of her biographies I felt I understood her better and had more empathy for Edith Head after seeing Susan's performance. I've thought about doing a blog post on the real costume colors in classic B&W films, but it will take me time to gather both B&W and color visuals for comparison. How colors came across was odd in old B&W films - purples made better blacks and browns were sometimes used for reds. As for the attributions, The Wanderer is not one of those addressed - and in the mid twenties and very early thirties giving any costume credits was inconsistent. But with Edith there have been some issues about her credits for many of Audrey Hepburn's costumes that were designed by Givenchy, and for the men's costumes in The Sting designed by others. This is addressed in the play rather than ignoring the controversy.
I would LOVE to see this play. That actress looks so much like her! I was very interested in what you said about Edith..."But this does reveal that Edie felt she needed to flatter and accommodate the stars, whereas some top designers considered this a contest of wills." Very telling about this lady. She must have been very secure in herself.
By the way, I don't know if I ever told you this, but I am so jealous of that beautiful purple and blue spotlight motif. I love those colors too, and wish I had found it first!
Thanks for your comments ClassicBecky. I'm sure you would love the play. Thanks for the compliment on the masthead design. Occasionally I look at the new template styles available but I can't seem to tear myself away from the black background and those colors from the blue and violet spotlights.
Now if I were Eve Harrington talking to Margo Channing, I would encourage you to make a change and then steal it myself. However, being a decent human being, I wouldn't do that -- LOL! I am known as the Great Re-Arranger in my family. I'm always changing furniture around. My theory is that the rich buy new mansions, the middle class redecorates, and the poor re-arrange -- hardy har! Anyway, I completely empathize with the bug to change things, but I sure do love those spotlights!
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