Welcome to the Silver Screen Modiste

"Just us, the cameras, and those lovely people out there in the dark!"

Norma Desmond



Modiste: maker of, or dealer in women's fashionable clothes. Modiste was also one of the names given to the early 1920s Hollywood costume designers.




Saturday, July 16, 2011

GOTTA DANCE GOWNS


The dance gowns of the classic movie musicals appeared on screen like explosions of a supernova, with little left to preserve as Hollywood artifacts. The gowns had a short but hard life, with few surviving to come up for auctions like that of Debbie Reynolds, where only a handful were present. But ever since the first Hollywood movie musicals of 1929 and the 1930s, they have influenced fashion and the gowns of today's television dance contests. The costumes themselves may be mostly history, but we still have those wonderful movies and these beautiful stills to inspire us.



Photofest
Rita Hayworth (nee Rita Cansino) and Fred Astaire light up the screen in You Were Never Lovelier

Although the dance costume is meant to provide freedom of movement, its subtext is one of eroticism. As is the case with women's fashion generally, the interplay of concealement and revealment provides constant interest. Movie dance costumes revealed the female body either in translucent silhouette or in direct exposure. Along with the ballet, the generous exposure of leg not only shows better the movement of dance steps, but also provides for sexual allure.






Photofest



Cyd Charisse was one of the very best dancers, and had the looks to attract all eyes. She was one of the few dancers that danced with both Fred Astaire and Gene Kelly on screen. Here she's shown in a hot number with Gene Kelly in Singing in the Rain. Walter Plunkett designed her fetching dance costume for the pictured Broadway Melody Ballet. At a time when several great dancers had starred in Hollywood musicals, Cyd's overt sensuality set a new standard.



Photofest



Here's Cyd dancing with Fred Astaire in the Girl Hunt Ballet scene from The Band Wagon, 1953. Helen Rose had been designing most of the women's costumes at MGM when Band Wagon was produced. A tiff with the studio producers however put her on the sidelines and so Mary Ann Nyberg designed the costumes. While Cyd's red sequined gown in the number above was beautiful, its mismatching with black gloves is perennially distracting.




Photofest



Marge and Gower Champion were a great dancing team that starred in several movies at MGM. They danced in Show Boat, Everything I have is Yours, Lovely to Look At, and Give a Girl a Break, among others. Marge Champion was one of the movie stars that appeared as a guest and speaker at the 2011 TCM Classic Film Festival in Hollywood.



Photofest



One of the most beautiful dance gowns ever worn on film was this Ginger Rogers silver bugle-beaded costume designed by Bernard Newman. She wears it while dancing with Fred Astaire in the "Let's Face the Music and Dance" number in Follow the Fleet, 1936. Being made entirely of glass beads sewn on fabric, it would have weighed about 30 pounds. With the numerous takes in this filming, Ginger got more than a workout.






Here is Fred and Ginger in the Gay Divorcee, 1934. The thing that made them so popular, besides their great dancing, were those big smiles while they danced. It looked like they were really having fun together, a big tonic during the Great Depression. This was the first movie where they got top billing. Walter Plunkett designed Ginger's gown. Ginger's birthday was 100 years ago today, July 16th.




Fred dances here with the Mexican beauty Dolores Del Rio in Flying Down to Rio, 1934. Irene designed Miss Del Rio's gown. This was the first movie in which Fred and Ginger danced together. Although they were not the top stars, they stole the show.


With all the great young dancers today, you would think musicals and dance films would make a comeback.  A Top Hat sequel anyone?












12 comments:

ClassicBecky said...

Oh those gowns! I'm with you, Christian, that gorgeous bugle-beaded gown she wears in Let's Face the Music and Dance is my favorite of all, not to mention that the dance is my favorite of theirs! I was very interested to see that you felt Cyd's red sequin dress was marred by the black gloves. I always thought that too! It just didn't work. Do you think she should have worn gloves at all? If so, what color would you pick?

Cyd's green flapper dress and the dance with Kelly has to be one of the most fun, sexual dances in film. I sometimes wonder how they got away with some of those movies, considering the Code was still in force! Rita Hayworth could wear an old sugar sack and look good, and the dress you highlighted is just gorgeous. One you didn't include was Ginger's feather dress from Cheek to Cheek. I know they considered it a real pain to deal with, but it is a definite favorite of mine.

Wonderful assessment of the purpose and and subtext of the gowns. Oh what a shame that they didn't survive the years. Really excellent article, Christian!

Christian Esquevin said...

Thnaks ClassicBecky for your comments. I also love Bernard Newman's feather and satin gown for Ginger Rogers in Top Hat. Ginger loved that gown - although Fred went nuts when all the feathers stuck to his tuxedo - but what an unforgetable gown! I was thinking of including it in this post - maybe I'll add it if I can get a good image of it.

I sort of understand why the designer chose black gloves,in Band Wagon. Cyd wears a black coat at the opening of that scene so when she opens her coat the red jumps off the screen. But that was for a few seconds, and for the rest of the scene those gloves just don't fit. That shows the difference between a great seasoned designer like Helen Rose and a merely talented one like Mary Ann Nyberg. Thanks for the compliment Becky.

Page said...

Christian,
That first picture of Cyd with Fred is captivating. Thanks for discussing her since Ginger gets so much attention but Cyd certainly did have dancing chops as well as Ann Miller.

The gown Del Rio is wearing is just gorgeous. I would love to see it in color and borrow it for a night out Salsa Dancing.

Another interesting post.
Page

Classicfilmboy said...

I recently wrote about how the sleeves on Dolores Del Rio's dresses in "Flying Down to Rio" were so big that she could hide small children in them! But that's what I love about the fashions in old movies, too. The excess could be as fun as the magnificent beauty of them. Please post more :)

MovieFreak said...

I just watched Cyd Charisse in The Band Wagon today. I love that film I especially love watching her in the film because of her great costumes which show off her amazing legs. Although Fred Astaire danced with so many women in so many films I personally feel that Charisse was his best partner she was able to keep time with him.
Charisse's green dress in Singin in the Rain is awesome. That scene with her just totally stands out from the rest of the film because she is gorgeous and that flapper dress makes her ooze with sex appeal with her legs being the focus.
I think dance costumes are so fascinating to read about because of how they had to be designed.
Excellent write up Christian I loved it (I have your site listed on my blog and I was so excited to see the update and what it was about. here's my blog: unecinephile.blogspot.com)

Christian Esquevin said...

Thanks Classicfilmboy. Yes, some costumes were purposefully exagerated. And for the most part they have to command attention in a stylish way. That's one thing most of the famous couturiers could not inderstand when they designed for the screen.

Christian Esquevin said...

Thanks MovieFreak for your comments and link to the Silver Screen Modiste. I agree that Cyd Charisse was the best in the combination of her skills, beauty, and magnetism. Eleanor Powell was also great but her specialty was taps whereas Cyd's was ballet. And then there was Leslie Caron, and Rita Hayworth, and Vera Ellen, not to mention Ginger Rogers. How lucky was Fred!

Caftan Woman said...

I rewatched "Follow the Fleet" last evening. The beaded gown in "Let's Face the Music and Dance" takes my breath away.

Sometimes a number has nothing to do with the dance, it's all about watching those unbelievably gorgeous gowns.

Caftan Woman said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Christian Esquevin said...

Thanks for your comment CaftanWoman. That gown from Follow the Fleet is spectacular, and the whole number is exhilarating. Ginger Rogers must have paid for her art. The extra weight of an entire gown made of glass bugle-beads is not one that other dancers would have coped with.

The Lady Eve said...

Wonderful review of and observations on classic dance gowns. I think of many of them as the stuff that dreams are made of...

I've always had a soft spot for the ostrich feather dress Ginger wore in "Top Hat" for the "Cheek to Cheek" number (a wonderfully romantic song sung so fetchingly by Fred Astaire). That sequence still makes my heart go pitty-pat.

Christian Esquevin said...

Thanks for your comment Lady Eve. I too love that ostrich plume and satin gown designed by Bernard Newman for Top Hat. I wish I had a photo of it being made - every plume had to be sewn on induvidually - and then resewn after it came loose during the dance. You have to pay for perfection!