SUITS HER

Women's suits are making a comeback in the new collections.  But many are more inspired by ordinary men's tailored jackets than the amazing work that was done in the 1940s and 1950s by designers Gilbert Adrian and Irene Gibbons. Adrian and Irene - Hollywood costume designers turned fashion designers with their own labels - created masterpieces of design and tailoring. At a time when a critical demand for high quality women's suits existed, Adrian and Irene showed several suit designs in every collection, each one as exciting and beautiful as the other. Such a high level of design and detail has not been seen since. Adrian's suits featured his favored asymmetry and sense of drama. Irene's showed beautiful lines, clever details, and precious buttons. Both had impeccable tailoring. More, they consistently turned out fresh ideas in suit design.

                                                                           
An Adrian suit could not be ordinary. A woman in an Adrian suit caught one's eye from far away, the suit's interesting silhouette grabbing attention.  The eye stayed fixed, relishing the details as the wearer drew closer. This Adrian suit has both detail and drama, and a mantle and hood that provides mystery.

                                                                                  

                                                                                 
An air of mystery, and boldness, is aided by stripes. The North African inspiration for this Adrian suit from 1947 makes it a magnet for attention. Is there a comparable suit today?

                                                                           
Adrian loved to use tabs, pockets, and buttons for their design value in his jackets. Tabs and flaps added movement and surface interest. He would sometimes put pockets or buttons in various locations on a jacket, disregarding their function.   

                                                                                
In this suit Adrian adorned the jacket and its sleeves with rows of tabs. The tabs were used, like fringe, to show movement. He used tabs, and a longer version that he called slings, on gowns and dresses as well.     
                                                                                                                          

                                                                                       
Adrian could be dramatic or simple, elegant or witty. Even in 1950 he loved broad shoulders on women's garments. The power suits of the 1970s and 1980s were based on his earlier models from the 1930s and 1940s. 

   
                                                                                    
                                       
                                                         
Irene was the other grand artist of suit design. Like Adrian, she left the movie studio to start her own fashion business after having dressed the most glamorous stars of Hollywood.  Here is one of her signature sleek suits from the mid-50s, black with a white mink stole.                      

                                                                                       
Here is another Irene suit of British worsted wool. The high collar and long row of buttons adds distinction to the suit jacket. 

                                                                                      

                                                                                     
Irene used curved darts in this suit to add a feminine touch, along with a kick pleat at the skirt. Here too the buttons are an important feature of the design.   

                                                                                    
This crisply tailored Irene navy blue suit was adorned with a blouse overflowing the jacket, the blouse decorated with a print of violets.   

                                                                                      
This is a three piece Irene suit including a tunic coat. Irene designed the wide tunic to contrast with the slimness of the tubular skirt. The coat was in dark and light walnut color. Costume designer Greg LaVoi has dressed Kyra Sedwick in vintage Irene suits on TNT's The Closer. She looks fabulous wearing them, slim and sexy, distinctive and professional. 

Suits were a staple item in women's wardrobes from the late 1930s through the early1960s. The advice at the time was there was no "better way of looking put together" than in a suit. Wearing a suit is very optional today. But one thing is certain, it's not likely we'll ever see again the likes of the Adrian and Irene suit. 

Adrian V-Line suit