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"Just us, the cameras, and those lovely people out there in the dark!"

Norma Desmond



Modiste: maker of, or dealer in women's fashionable clothes. Modiste was also one of the names given to the early 1920s Hollywood costume designers.




Wednesday, October 27, 2010

BATTY FOR BANTON


Travis Banton, along with Adrian, created the modern look of glamour while designing costumes for early Hollywood movies. Banton quickly transferred the couture skills he picked up working with Madame Frances and Lucile to the need for drama and visual appeal in the young art of motion pictures. The striking beauty of the Hollywood stars and their magnetism gave Banton what he needed to create classic images of movie glamour.


In this photo of Carole Lombard in Rumba, from 1935, Banton has created a gown of black crepe with a "surplice" treatment at the bodice and mid-section. She also wears a matching wrap with cuffs of silver fox and a hat adorned with paradise feathers.

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Travis Banton has to have designed the sexiest Cleopatra costumes ever seen on film (we'll see about the forthcoming Angelina Jolie version). Here Claudette Colbert models the gown for the 1934 version. With a vision like this who cares about historical accuracy?

                                                                                 
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Travis Banton knew how to be sophisticated - or how to knock your eyes out. Marlene Dietrich usually had exotic roles, and looked great in and preferred dramatic outfits. This costume for Angel, in 1937 was made from chiffon and thousands of hand-sewn sequins and beads, and encrusted with semi-precious jewels. The stole is trimmed in Russian sable.

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Here is another image of Dietrich from Angel. In this costume, Banton has designed a stunning full skirt using graduated sizes of chevron striping. One could not fail to get attention in this beautiful outfit.

                                                                               
Travis Banton shows Marlene Dietrich a costume sketch in this photo where she wears another outfit he designed for Angel.

                                                                                    
Travis Banton came to Hollywood from New York where he had worked for Mme Frances and  for Lucile. He was hired by Paramount Studios to design Dressmaker from Paris in 1925.  The photo above shows Dorothy Seastrom in a Banton creation for the movie. The style is nothing like the flapper modes that were then in vogue, though Erte's influence can be seen. Banton worked for designer Howard Greer for a couple of years before becoming Paramount's head designer.


Here is Cecila Evan as a mannequin or model from The Dressmaker from Paris in a beautiful fringed dress designed by Banton. Dressmaker was based on a scenario by Howard Hawks. It's a curiosity that the director of such "manly" films as Scarface (the original version), The Big Sleep, and Rio Bravo wrote this story and also directed Fig Leaves in 1926, another fashion oriented film with costumes designed by Adrian.

Travis Banton helped create the modern look of glamour - what it was and what it still is today. He also mentored Edith Head. Many of his designs are now fashion icons. They will always remain visually arresting. That's why I'm batty for Banton.

                                                                                   

2 comments:

suz said...

Fabulous post!

Christian Esquevin said...

Thanks Suz, with your discerning eye and knowledge of Miss Head, I knew you'd be batty for Banton too.