THE MAN OF FASHION

The recent release of Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps brings to mind the image of the well-dressed and fashionable man both on and off the screen. Its costumes were designed by Ellen Mirojnick. The first Wall Street, from 1987, was one of those rare films that influened men's fashions. Although Ellen Mirojnick was the costume designer for the first film as well, it was Allan Flusser that was responsible for the memorable wardroble of  Michael Douglas in the first Wall Street. . Mr. Flusser is a men's clothing designer and the author of terrific books on men's dressing, including Clothes and the Man, and the more recent Dressing the Man. Both are classics and highly recommended. Another film that influenced men's fashion, really launching high quality men's European styling in the U.S., was American Gigolo in 1980. Giorgio Armani was responsible for the wardrobe and look of star Richard Gere. As is true for most films, costuming defines character, and for this movie, costume was crucial to the story as well.

Jimmy Stewart is shown above in white tie and dinner jacket. He was not as well known a dresser as Cary Grant, but with his good looks and tall thin frame he could carry clothes well. Between the 1930s and the films mentioned above, the look of the fashionable man varied only slightly. Occasionally the style got very colorful, and for long periods it went missing. Here are some classics and some that are noteworthy.

                                                                   
Dick Powell is pictured here wearing a stylish light-colored wool coat with a silk cravat or foulard. The cravat unfortunately became associated with male affectation although it's a simple and elegant way to add style to either casual or semi-formal dress. Dick Powell  was a song and dance man that could also play the film-noir detective. He was like the equally dapper James Cagney, who could play hoofer or tough guy. 

                                                                           
William Holden was the heart-throb for many in the 1950s. He had a great build and wore clothes well. Here he is pictured in 1950 in what was then considered a casual outfit; light-weight wool slacks, skinny belt, and a printed pattern shirt. Norma Desmond dressed him to the nines in Sunset Blvd.

                                

                                                                             

In France, Jean Marais was probably the best-looking, and best-dressed, movie star of his day. Here he is shown with Marie Dea in Jean Cocteau's magical film Orphee in 1949. Marais was best known for his role as the beast in Cocteau's La Belle et La Bette (Beauty and the Beast) from 1946. In Orphee shown above, Marais was handsome enough for a godess to fall in love with him. His style is continental - casual but elegant, comfortable but sylish. Soft well draped pants and soft shoes. His style reminded me of my father's manner of dress - another Frenchman of that generation.

                       

                                                                          

Here is my father, Edmond Esquevin, as a young man in Marseille, circa 1947. He is not dressed for the beach, which was within view of where he lived.

Here is another photo of Jean Marais, taken in 1963 on his property near Paris. Marais could always wear bulky sweaters and layers of clothing and still appear thin. His coat here is fur-lined. The godesses must still have loved him.

Gary Cooper could look just as natural wearing a tuxedo as flannel and chaps. He was born in Montana but schooled in England. His start in Hollywood was as an extra riding horses in cowboy movies. Ingrid Bergman said every woman he worked with fell in love with him.
                                                                            

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One of the original and most dapper cast members from Mad Men is Bryan Batt. The TV series has been influential in bringing back men's (and women's) styles from the early 1960s. Pictured above at a 2008 season finale party at Brooks Brothers Beverly Hills, Bryan Batt wears a 60's inspired suit with a narrow-lapel jacket and obligatory tie-clasp.

                                                                            
The styles of the early 60s changed dramatically by the late 60s. I bought this paisley Nehru jacket on Hollywood Boulevard in 1968 and wore it to the clubs on Sunset  like the Whisky A Go Go. The Nehru Jacket was inspired by the late Indian Prime Minister and worn by the Beatles. The jackets were usually white but a few were influenced by the colorful psychedelic era and the outfits of Jimmy Hendrix.  Ironically, the Nehru jacket above combines that influence with the paisley pattern which is also of Indian origin.                                                                      

Label of the paisley Nehru jacket

                                                                                 

One of my favorite films for men's fashions is The Red Shoes, from 1948. While it's about a ballet dancer and the conflict between her art, her lover, and her impresario, it shows artistic flare in the dress of the men that fits with the story and setting.. Of appeal to me is that look that combines ease, comfort and style that existed on the Riviera in the late 40s and early 50s. The movie is magnficent for other reasons, and with its new color-restored version, should not be missed. The clip below is captioned although it was filmed in English and directed by Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger. The costumes included the work of Jacques Fath, Carven, and Dorothy Edwards.

The man of fashion is still around. And the man of fashion will always find his way to style. Many more, though,  could use a little more help in what style can be. Reading Flusser can be a start.